Showing posts with label Cape Town. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cape Town. Show all posts

04 February 2016

Discovering Stories of Slavery

I finished reading Andre Brink’s Philida a while ago and it’s taken a long time to process the violence of the relationship between slave and master in the Cape during the 19th century. I remember hearing that the slaves in South Africa never had it has bad as their counterparts in America.  Of course, I knew that this was propaganda along with other things we were told about the benign nature of our history. However reading the details of rape, whipping, impaling on top of the humiliation of being sold/auctioned, objectification, and the cruelty the slaves were subjected to, was nothing short of distressing.

Brink was inspired by the story of a relative who had owned the farm, Zandvliet, which is now Solms-Delta*.  Francois Brink had fathered four children with his father’s slave, Philida. He had promised that he would marry Philida but the farm is in trouble and his father orders him to marry a white woman from an important family in Cape Town. It wouldn’t do to have reminders of his former transgressions. So Philida is sold and separated from Ouma Nella, the only mother she has known.

The story unfolds in 1830s just before emancipation. Brink, the writer, skilfully juggles with religion, the tensions between the English and Dutch, and relationship between the landowners and the slaves. There were places in the book, though, where I wasn’t sure that a woman would say something quite in the voice that he uses.

There’s a poignant scene in the book which has stuck with me. Slaves were not allowed to wear shoes and one of the slaves on Philida’s new farm secretly makes a pair for each of them so that they can celebrate the emancipation with shoes. And celebrate they do, “…running up and down the street…singing and dancing and kicking up the dust...from now on everything will be different.” Of course they weren’t really free as they were forced to spend a further four years serving an “apprenticeship” on the farm.

Andre Brink was the first Afrikaans writer to have a book banned by the South African government during the apartheid era. He challenged the policies of the Nationalist Party through his writing in books such as A Dry White Season and A Chain of Voices. He died almost a year ago today, aged 79. Philida was long-listed for the Man Booker Prize in 2012.

Philida reflects near the end of the book that “Ouma Nella’s stories… are all that remain now. Perhaps, when the end comes, they are all that can go on living.”


*When Mark Solms bought the farm in 2002, he set about uncovering its history, revealing not only the foundations of the first house built there, but also the remnants of a Stone Age site dating back about 5 000 years ago, and the story of Philida. A museum has been established to preserve the history of the farm as well as the musical heritage of the Cape. 

29 September 2013

Walking through History - Celebrating our Heritage

I have no problem with Heritage Day turning into Braai Day. After all, cooking over a fire goes back to the days when man first discovered that fire might make his food taste better and cuts across many cultural boundaries - that's quite a heritage to celebrate. But I do believe that we still have a lot of work to do in order to get to know each other in this country.

In that spirit I was happy to see that Footsteps to Freedom City Walking Tours had joined IzikoMuseums and the Taj Hotel to offer free walks exploring the places of historical significance in the city centre during Heritage week. It seemed an appropriate way to spend Heritage Day and I invited an Australian visitor along. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the crowd of about 40 people who turned up consisted of mostly South Africans, eager to learn more of their own heritage. 

Traders on Greenmarket Square

Old Town House
We started off in Greenmarket Square, the second oldest public space after the Grand Parade, which served as a general meeting place and where water was collected from the public water pump which stood in the centre of the square. I didn’t know that the front door of the Old Town House, which stands on the edge of the square, is the place from which you measure distance in Cape Town. 


Pincushion Proteas or Waratahs

Next was the colourful flower market, Trafalgar Place, where there were beautiful pincushion Proteas on sale. My Australian friend pointed out that she knew them by a different name back home – Waratahs (yes, the name of one of their rugby teams). 



The City Hall

The Bell tower of the Groote Kerk

The Slave Memorial on Church Square

A slave memorial, consisting of slave names engraved on marble slate, has been erected on Church Square.  Slaves socialized here while their owners attended church services in the Groote Kerk. Opposite the memorial and church is The Slave Lodge which housed slaves, convicts and political prisoners between the 17th and 19th centuries. 

Government Avenue used to be the place to see and be seen.  
Our walk continued down Government Avenue past Tuynhuis where guests of the colony used to stay and which is now the president’s office. A blocked-up water channel which was originally dug by slaves runs in front of this house. We were reminded that the fresh water which runs down from Table Mountain was the main attraction of the Cape as a halfway stop on the way to the east. It seems a pity that we are not harnessing this water for use instead of letting it all flow into the sea. 

View of Table Mountain from the Company Gardens

Statue of Sir George Grey in front of National Library
The statue of Governor George Gray is the first statue of a person to be erected at the Cape. At the end of his term he donated his books to start the National Library. We ended our tour in front of St. George’s Cathedral which I remember as a safe place to gather during the apartheid years. Opposite the cathedral, in front of the Mandela-Rhodes building, is a piece of the Berlin Wall which was presented to Nelson Mandela on his first state visit to Germany in 1996.

Our guide was knowledgeable and fed us many interesting tidbits like the fact that the floor of the Groote Kerk was originally sand so that it could be dug up in order that members of the congregation could be buried there. 

I highly recommend this tour to locals and visitors alike. It was a worthwhile way to spend two hours. 

09 December 2012

Traffic like Christmas...

Last week I had to meet a friend in town. I made sure to arrive early as she is so punctual you could set your watch by her. Five minutes before our scheduled meeting I got a text - "running late...traffic like xmas..." 

I always feel that we should be approaching the end of the year slowly, winding down and taking stock. Instead we usually hurtle towards the end, trying to fit in all the things we meant to do earlier in the year. And then visitors start appearing and the entertaining begins and so you are either feeling guilty about having fun when you should be finishing something off, or frustrated about wanting to be having fun while you rush around completing tasks. 

It doesn't help that businesses start closing their books at the end of November for any new orders and schools close in the first week of December. Yoga classes ended more than a week ago. At least Run/Walk for Life is carrying on until the 21st ... before all the eating begins!

I am quite excited that we are going to be here for the holidays. I plan to be a tourist in my own town and have been collecting snippets from the newspapers of what's hot (or cool!). 

So far I am definitely checking out Bree Street for its restaurants and local designs. There is a coffee shop on Bree called  Escape Caffe which is owned by a Nobel Prize winner, which deserves a visit. Woodstock seems to be getting trendier and more arty by the week.



An old favourite which I share with my daughter is to trawl Kalk Bay. A really great day out is to drive to Muizenberg, have breakfast at Knead and then walk all along the boardwalk to Kalk Bay, stopping for coffee and shopping. There's a great independent bookshop, Kalk Bay Books, worth a visit.  






But today, I am going to enjoy the jazz as played by the Delft Big Band at the Helderberg Nature Reserve. Will keep you posted!

16 May 2012

Rondebosch to Khayelitsha


Yesterday I travelled a relatively short distance from Rondebosch to Khayelitsha - it might as well have been on the other side of the world. We were going to one of the schools in the townships, all the way down Lansdowne Road, a familiar landmark on the Cape Flats. We went on and on for 45 minutes or more, leaving behind the tree-lined streets and high walls of the Southern Suburbs.

To start off, the road was pretty good and then gradually became more chaotic – cows were spotted rummaging through garbage on one side of the road, while on the other side, live sheep were for sale. A little further was a big open area where fires were going in drums which had been halved lengthwise, meat on the grill, fragrant smoke billowing into the air.

Here and there patches of green grass with colourful benches and tables hinted at previous attempts to encourage a communal gathering place. Along other stretches of road, shacks threatened to spill over into the road, so close that we could almost see right into their living areas.

Everything could be bought – mattresses piled high next to second-hand furniture, pre-assembled shacks of corrugated iron and wood, haircuts, general groceries and medical care. Streams of school children were making their way home past a billboard warning against the ills of drinking alcohol during pregnancy: “Your child needs a mother, not a dop”. Hooting taxis packed with weary travellers were weaving through traffic. A group of children on the back of a bakkie, passed away the time playing cards.

We attracted stares from curious pedestrians, wondering what our business was. We stopped to ask for directions only to be told to keep going straight ahead. At last we arrived at Chris Hani School where seven young girls were rehearsing for their trip to Sweden to perform in front of HM Queen Silvia. I can’t help thinking that our trip to see them was almost as far as the journey that they will make from Khayelitsha to Sweden!

31 October 2011

Cape Town, beautiful Cape Town



Cape Town is beautiful. Seriously. And I am not just saying so because I have had an overseas visitor who I have been going around with! Yes, I know that Capetonians are guilty of taking their beautiful city for granted.

Apart from getting out there with my friend to Kirstenbosch Gardens and Kalk Bay, I am also week 3 of Boot Camp. Last week we had a session in Newlands Forest - I had no idea that there were so many people out there at 6:00 pm on a week night - joggers, people walking their dogs and, of course, the silent army of boot-campers marching along with yoga mats under their arms!

On Saturday morning, braving the rain we hiked to Elephant's Eye in the Silvermine Nature Reserve - the scenery was breathtaking and was certainly worth the sweat and pain to get there. I cannot remember when last I walked through the Reserve. Most of the sessions are on the sports fields of a local high school, in full view of Table Mountain. I can assure you that crunches, push-ups and lunges are a little less painful with the mountain, the fresh air and the grass beneath your feet for distraction! 

What attracted me to the program, was the chance to reacquaint myself with the outdoors and get my fitness levels up so that I can once again do regular hikes. Long may it last. Any takers for a regular hike (when I am fitter, of course)?

Check out the links Newlands Forest and Silvermine Reserve and Kirstenbosch Gardens for a little reminder of what's out there.