When the school year comes to an end, Swedes prepare to enjoy a five-week, nationwide paid siesta to worship the sun’s rays. Midsummer's Eve is always celebrated on the Friday between 19 and 25 June (very convenient for planning purposes). We’ve joined the mass exodus to the archipelago and summer houses, emptying the streets of Stockholm (and they really do empty, even the restaurants are closed. It's quite spooky!).
The days stretch into balmy evenings at crayfish feasts set out on trestle tables draped in white cloths, on balconies and in gardens all over Sweden. Leisurely lunches of pickled herring, new potatoes and sour cream on rye or crisp bread are accompanied by bottles of schnapps and silly drinking songs.
The wistful glow of light at midnight bestows a sense of magic on the summer. Midsummer night is the longest night of the year and was thought to be magical. On their way home young girls are supposed to pick seven different species of flowers and sleep with them under their pillows, in order to dream of their future husbands.
The ancient pagan tradition of Midsummer marks the end of the spring work season and the beginning of the interlude before hay-making. At the local village green the celebration of light and fertility commences with reeling ring dances to the strains of accordions and fiddles, around a giant leaf-clad maypole. Thankfully, there are no longer virgin sacrifices although maidens in flowing dresses with flowers in their hair abound. Floral wreaths adorn front doors, gardens drip with heavy scents and bright flowers bloom on the side of the roads and tumble out of pots.
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The Swedish summer is so short that I can appreciate the celebrations and I admire the psyche of taking full advantage of the sun when it's there. Though I'm still not quite sure about the following song performed by children and adults, with actions, alike: (must have something to do with the schnapps and aquavit).
The little frogs, the little frogs are funny to see
No ears, no ears, no tails they have!
Kou ack ack ack, kou ack ack ack!
Glad Midsommar! (Happy Midsummer!)
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