08 June 2015

African Violets, Bonfires and Daffodils

African violets need the sun  

My daughter has just returned from a stint in Prague where the temperature slowly climbed its way from 2 to 18 degrees C...spring, apparently! She's been complaining about the weather here since she came back. When I asked what she, a born-and-bred Capetonian, was going on about, she had two words for me - central heating. 

I must admit that I've been alternating between huddling over the heater in my study or melting my slippers beside the fire in the living room. Either winter has set in with quite a vengeance or that dirty little word, age, is responsible. But, there are few countries in the world where, in the middle of winter, you can experience the sunshine that we've had for the last few days. 

“There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes,” the pragmatic Swedes say, while wrapped up in several layers. Woolly hats and scarves, stout sheepskin-lined boots and jackets zipped up to their chins, is standard gear from October to April. We’ve experienced the country’s many moods, a reflection of the changes in weather. The seasons are defined, decisive and distinct, unlike the weather in Cape Town which, like a teenager with too much choice, swings wildly from one season to the next, often in the same day.


I’ve inhaled the crisp fresh air in spring, heralded by wild yellow daffodils bravely pushing their way up out of half-frozen soil. The country, emerging from months of enforced hibernation, seems to have a bounce in its step as it re-discovers itself. There’s anticipation in the new green leaves and a not-quite-warm-enough sun which nonetheless shines brightly in a clear blue sky. I’ve been tricked into shedding my scarf and jacket only to quickly regret having exposed myself to what masquerades as warmer weather. 

Summer is a time to celebrate. As the school year comes to an end, Swedes prepare to enjoy a five-week, nationwide paid siesta to worship the sun’s rays. But more of that later, since Midsummer is coming up. 





In the damp chill of autumn, when gentle rains fall from gloomy skies, the changing leaves float reluctantly down to the ground and quiet wisps of mist swirl through the trees. After an indulgent summer it’s time to get serious before the October snow falls. As the light starts to dwindle the locals scurry around like squirrels preparing to hibernate.



I haven’t been to Sweden in winter when darkness falls as early as 15h00 and friends say the drop in temperature causes a personality-change. Drinks on the wooden deck become a distant memory replaced by furtive dashes in and out of the garage. On St Lucia’s Day in December, processions of children led by a girl with a crown of candles, sing songs to bring light into the darkest month. I'm not sure that I would survive. I often joke that I'm like an African violet, I need the sun. 



Mediaeval traditions, to keep witches and evil spirits away, mark the end of the season. On 30 April a bonfire bids the cold farewell and welcomes the beginning of spring. The accumulated debris and leaves which have been vigorously swept up are piled high and set alight. Neighbours, who’ve been insulated against each other and the elements for months, emerge to party into the night, illuminated by blazes and filled with the crackling sounds of leaves devoured by flames. 

The rituals between the seasons create a distinct rhythm to life in the country and it seems that you always know exactly where you stand and what to expect. “The Swedish way is to gather information so that plans can be made,” a friend told me once. 

“In South Africa we tend to wait and see what happens,” I countered, “and then plan accordingly.”

And if the sun comes streaming in through the window,
take the opportunity to bask in it!

This is an extract from my masters' thesis. 

04 June 2015

Stockholm - a few of my favourite things


The Royal Palace, Stockholm across the water from The Grand Hotel.
Behind the palace lies Gamla Stan, the old town.


Proof that he's done it!
Friends have just been to Sweden to run the Stockholm Marathon and asked me about things to do there before they left. I am of absolutely no use as far as the marathon is concerned (I did Google it and learnt that it is one of the most scenic routes in the world, along many waterways and taking in the Royal Palace, Park, the City Hall and Opera House).

Stockholm is my favourite city in the world   ("We give you one winter and then let's hear if you still think that," warns a friend who would love to migrate south.) and there are a few places I can recommend. 




Here are a few of my favourite things



My favourite hotel = Hotel Skeppsholmen
Situated on a small island with the Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of Architecture as its neighbours. Last year I combined a visit for the World's Children's Prize ceremony with a stay to work on my thesis. Imagine brisk walks interspersed with writing in the dining room after breakfast, Norah Jones playing softly in the background. At least go there for breakfast or lunch or brunch if you’re not staying.

 






I have also stayed at The Grand – but it is just that – grand! Kind of like the Mount Nelson or the Table Bay. Also popular for tea. Across the road from the hotel is a little kiosk that belongs to them – good coffee to go. Have a kanelbullen. Oh, the Swedes drink very strong coffee…just saying.



The Grand Cafe

kanelbullen


Square with Nobel Museum on the right

You have to walk around the old town –  across the water from the Grand you will see the royal palace and that whole area behind it, is the old town Gamla Stan. It’s one of Europe’s best-preserved medaeval towns. The Nobel Museum is on the town square; worth a visit for some insight into Alfred Nobel's legacy. Also visit the restaurant, Den Gyldene Vrede, which dates back to 18th century. Nobel decreed that the committee which decides on the prize for Literature, meets here every Thursday evening. 



Typical street in Gamla Stan 

Sign outside Den Gyldene Vreden 

And then there’s a very different, funky restaurant Pubologi. It’s an experience. Book online before you go.

My favourite museum = FotografiskaThe cafĂ© at the museum has the most beautiful views of Stockholm and the restaurant is another eating experience – book for dinner.

And nice for a walk around inside and out – Waldermarsudde art museum; and have something to drink in the cafĂ© which is actually the original kitchen of the house of Prince Eugen (1865-1947).


Aerial view of Waldemarsudde from website 


Everyone says you have to visit the Vasa Museum but I haven’t yet. 
It’s the only almost-fully intact 17th century ship in the world. 



The ABBA Museum is another place I haven't made it to. 

 


And my favourite shop (for gadgets and because I can buy small gifts to bring back) – 

Designtorget
Photo: Visitstockholm.com

Visit the Sodermalm district for its vibey, alternative feel – shops, art galleries, cafes, etc. 

Take a boat trip in the archipelago if you have time and the weather is good.





Photographs of ship, ABBA, the kanelbullen and the medal, courtesy of C. Kotze.All other photos, unless otherwise credited, taken by me.  

03 June 2015

Themba Lize - going places




About three years ago, I wrote about a local craftsman, Themba Lize, who had overcome many obstacles to become a fine leather designer. Imagine my excitement when I spotted the sign "Themba Lize (Pty) Ltd" at the crafters' exhibition at the Cape Town International Jazz Festival in March this year. 

"I am currently making sandals, handbags & toiletry bags. My business has grown in the manner that I am now attending short courses provided by the CCDI* and this helps a lot in terms of managing my business and to do things like product Costing etc," Themba updated me. 






*CCDI is the Cape Craft and Design Institute which  was set up in 2001 to support the needs of creative businesses in the Western Cape, and to grow the region’s craft and design sector. A not-for-profit company, the CCDI is a joint initiative of Western Cape Government and the Cape Peninsula University of Technology (CPUT). CCDI offers business, marketing and product support to develop capable people and build responsible creative enterprises, trading within local and international markets.

Themba at work in his workshop in Franschoek
Themba tells me that he is working on new ideas to expand his business. Watch this space. 

Themba's Contact Details:
Cell: 084 880 3128
Facebook Page: www.facebook.com/thembalizehandcraftedleathergoods

Photographs supplied by Themba 


31 May 2015

Cold Case: Revisiting our History

The stage is set to tell the story of  Dulcie September 
One of the motivations for me going back to university was to equip myself with the skills to tell the stories of growing up in District Six and on the Cape Flats. Not only my stories, but the stories of many who cannot tell their own. We’re a deeply divided society, a country still trying to recover from an oppressive past. We cannot sweep it all under the carpet and expect to move on. There will always be a bump there to trip us up, to nag at us to pull it straight.

People need to be acknowledged. Maybe nothing will undo the hurt but at least it’s not being ignored, we’re not being told to get over it and move on. We need to listen to each other with respect, be slow to judge. We need to know that someone saw our pain and understands; only then can we move forward.

I am encouraged by the two shows I saw recently at the Baxter Theatre – Cold Case: Revisiting Dulcie September, which premiered at the National Arts Festival in 2014 and My Word! Redesigning Buckingham Palace.

Buckingham Palace: District Six is, of course, the name of the novel by teacher and author Richard Rive, published in 1986. The tragedy of forced removals in District Six has been well-recorded. Less well-known is the story of anti-apartheid activist and ANC representative, Dulcie September who was assassinated in Paris in 1988.

The Baxter Theatre’s intimate Golden Arrow Studio provided the perfect backdrop to the personal stories of a childhood with an abusive father, a budding activist and a committed freedom fighter. Denise Newman is an accomplished story-teller who moved many members of the audience to tears, made us laugh at reminiscences of growing up in places like Athlone (where September was from). She held our attention for more than an hour, all eyes riveted on her one-person show … surrounded by the cardboard boxes which represent the cold case of what remains of the woman. 27 years later her killer has not been found. Theories abound, the mystery remains unsolved…

The biased history which we were forced to learn during apartheid needs to be balanced by stories such as these, giving value to our own experiences. The tens of thousands of people who attended her funeral, the street, square and boulevard named after her in Paris, make us proud of our struggle.

When I met Newman afterwards I couldn’t help enveloping her in a hug, I felt that I knew her, or at least the woman she had brought to life on the small stage. The run at the Baxter ended last night but look out for a couple of shows in August at the Artscape Theatre, to celebrate Woman’s Day.

Cold Case has won the Standard Bank Ovation Award and the Adelaide Tambo Award for Celebrating Human Rights through the Arts.



29 May 2015

The Slave Route Challenge




The Slave Lodge built in 1679 to house slaves owned by
the Dutch East India Company
With all the walking I did in the last year, I could have been in Johannesburg. However, I do think that beating the pavements around the neighborhood is what kept me sane and doing longer distances did come with a small sense of achievement. When Penny, my walking mate, posted the advert below on our WhatsApp group, it was the words 'Slave Route' which were most appealing though. And there was a 10km route.


slave route 2015 - advert 2



"But it's Mothers' Day," was one response from the group. What better way to spend the morning, doing something we enjoyed and the proceeds were going to Red Cross Hospital? So we signed up, not put off by comments like, "That's a tough one!" I did wonder what we were letting ourselves in for when I heard about "Koeksister Hill". And no snide comments from those of you who have run the WHOLE Two Oceans nine times! The race was fun, the weather perfect, the marshalls the friendliest I have encountered and the koeksisters on top of  the hill the best I have ever eaten (perhaps all the more so for the steepness of the hill!). 


       
            Waiting for the start in
          Darling Street
The hill 


Spectators along the way

The route took in familiar landmarks like The Company Gardens, District Six and The Castle of Good Hope to finish on the Grand Parade. Perhaps less well-known was the Slave Monument on Church Square, outside Die Groote Kerk and across the road from the Slave Lodge. 


Granite blocks on Church Square
bear names of slaves 

The Slave Tree once stood here
The race is an innovative way to introduce participants to the legacy of slavery in our city. Participants also received free entry to the District Six Museum and the Castle. Millions of South Africans are descended from slaves brought here by the Dutch from the east coast of Africa, India, Indonesia and other Indian Ocean islands in the 17th Century. These slaves and their descendants built our city and played a major role in shaping the identity of Cape Town. Because of apartheid, we were  taught to view this history through a lens of shame. It's time to reclaim our heritage with pride. 

Some further reading: 
Eyes of the Sky and The Slave Book both by Rayda Jacobs
Khalil's Journey by Ashraf Kagee
Echoes of Slavery by Jackie Loos

You may also enjoy: Walking through History: Celebrating our Heritage 

28 May 2015

Same-same, but different

So you may have noticed that I've been absent from the blog-o-sphere for a while. I've been on scholarly pursuits at the university on the hill, as mentioned in previous blogs before academia swallowed me up. 

I managed to churn out almost 80 000 words of a thesis, with a little help from family and friends and a dollop of motivation from Idris Elba, who made me feel guilty every time I opened the fridge, where my daughter had stuck the following picture: 
image courtesy of Pinterest




Normally, yoga would have kept me sane, but I developed a "tennis elbow" as a result of sitting at a computer for hours on end – first world problems, my daughter called it. So, instead of downward-facing dog and sun salutes, I put on my walking shoes and walked.

Now that my life is taking on a semblance of normality again, I've decided to revive the blog. I have held on to the lavender, travel stamps and potjie but it’s been given a fresh look (perhaps more grown-up?) by my friend and fellow-student, Stephen Symons … same-same, but different, as we heard everywhere we went in Thailand when we visited years ago.  I'm sure I even saw T-shirts with that saying.

When I emerged from behind my desk, the real world had been carrying on without me: 
My nephew, born at 34 weeks, had turned into a robust toddler after his shaky start to life. (See blog)

The little preemie soon
after birth 
A year later presumably
on a diet of gravel


cd

The Delft Big Band has played at Starlight Classics, released a CD and made a turn at the Cape Town International Jazz Festival. 

international delegates at WEF 2015
I gave the World Economic Forum a miss this year to complete and hand in the thesis but did manage to balance the last year with a trip to Paris with my daughter.



Attending the 2014 WCPRC awards ceremony provided the perfect excuse to take some time out to wrap up the thesis. 

Gripsholm Castle, Mariefred
And I was in False Bay Harbour to see my son and his team mates get rescued by the National Sea Rescue Institute during the Lipton Challenge Cup.

Hard to believe the storm 3 days later

In between, my daughter graduated and is on a gap year while my son is writing matric ... more news and snippets of writing in upcoming blogs!

03 February 2014

Bill and Melinda Gates on Three Myths on the World's Poor - WSJ.com

Unfortunately I didn't get to hear Bill and Melinda Gates speak at the World Economic Forum but I was very inspired by this article in the Wall Street Journal.


I did attend a session where a young Syrian women commented on the necessity of hearing the positive news of what was happening. She pointed out that for the refugees in the camps, HOPE was all they had to help them carry on. This article gave me some hope.


'via Blog this'